Birthstones

Understanding the bright history of coloured gemstones

 

From single stone jewellery to the ubiquitous family stone jewellery, birthstones are a mainstay of any jeweller’s inventory. While birthstone purchases may seen like a no-brainer for customers, it can be useful to share the lore behind these natal stones. Gaining an understanding of the legends behind each gem will make the experience of wearing coloured gemstones that much more enjoyable. A modest piece can suddenly take on a special character once the fables of its main gemstone are revealed , leading to added value for estate pieces.

 

There are in fact birthstones charts for every world culture, both modern and ancient. It is believed that the earliest Western chart is based on a Biblical description of the breastplate of Aaron. As the leader of the tribe of high priests, Aaron, the brother of Moses, wore this gem-studded armour, which is described in detail in the Exodus. On the ceremonial plate were twelve gemstones, each representing one of the Twelve Tribes of Israel. The specific gems also coordinated with Zodiac signs.

 

Birthstones were also assigned virtues and powers throughout ancient cultures, including Hindu, Russian and Roman. These mystical attributes were said to help protect the wearer form disease and death and to ensure victory and good fortune.

 

However, the monthly Gregorian calendar was not fully adopted until 1752, at which point a birthstone was assigned to each month, often depending on the stones colour.

 

As more gemstones were discovered, the colour-based chart became confusing and jumbled. So in 1912, the American National Association of Jewellers established the modern birthstones chart assigning an individual gem to each month. Since then, only one gemstone has been added: tanzanite was included in 2002 as one of December’s official birthstones.

JANUARY

Garnet has represented the first Zodiac sign since Biblical times, and January in particular since the Middle Ages. This gemstone’s resemblance to pomegranate seeds earned its name, form the Latin word from the crimson fruit, granatum. It is said that Noah used this gemstone’s fiery hue to guide his Ark; as such, red garnet earned the attributes of loyalty and faith. In the Middle Ages, it was even credited with healing blood disorders.

FEBRUARY

Amethyst has been associated with sobriety ever since the Ancient Greeks began serving wine in amethyst goblets to prevent inebriation. One of the oldest gemstones known to man, its deep purple hue has long been associated with royalty and principal religious figures throughout the centuries. In addition, the Victorians used amethyst to evoke sincerity in their jewellery.

MARCH

Innately linked to the sea because of its distinctive blue-green hues, aquamarine is one of March’s birthstones. Sailors and fishermen have long worn aquamarine to protect them form rough seas, while Victorians gave this gem as a gift to ensure happiness and marital devotion. However, bloodstone in another traditional birthstone of March- an opaque quartz with red flecks that was named after the legend of Christ’s blood falling to the ground and solidifying. Wearing bloodstone is believed to lend courage in the face of adversity.

APRIL

Historically, many cultures, form Ancient Roman to Arabic, have marked sapphires as April’s birthstone. The most luxe gemstone, however- the diamond- has come to be more strongly associated with April. Named after the Greek term for unconquerable, diamonds represent unequalled strength and determination. Until the 16th century, superstition led people to leave many diamonds in their rough form, lest their powers be diminished by polishing. The diamonds also now represents eternity and undying love, and has since become the primary gemstone in engagement rings.

MAY

Emerald has always been May’s birthstone across many cultures. Persians named this type of beryl after their word for green. From Cleopatra’s famous emerald mines to its association with Venus, the goddess of love, emerald’s attributes include immortal love, wisdom and future success. In the Middle Ages, children wore emeralds to prevent eye diseases, while thanks to emerald’s vibrant green tone and connection to spring, Victorians believed it to be a symbol of renewal and hope.

JUNE

Neutral-hued gemstones are largely favoured for the month of June- the traditional month for weddings. Thus, June is appropriately associated with the pearl, which is a symbol of purity, innocence and faith. Moonstone is another white gem used in June-birthstone jewellery. Ancient Romans believed this milky stone was sacred and created by moonlight itself. Moonstone represents longevity and future fortune. Likewise, alexandrite, a gem with rare colour change abilities, is the most recent addition to June’s birthstone ; it too symbolizes good fortune.

JULY

Ruby has long been considered a powerful gemstone. In fact, the most intriguing tale alleges rubies turn a dark menacing hue when danger is present, returning to bright red once peril has cleared. This internal glowing fire has become a symbol for undying love. In fact, the Victorians combined rubies and diamonds, both representing eternity, in love token jewellery. Ruby was also used for medicinal purposes in antiquity : in powder form, it was swallowed to cure indigestion.

AUGUST

Peridot was known to the Egyptians as the gem of the sun, bringing the bearer good luck and success in marriage. This grassy-green gemstone was discovered 4,000 years ago, when miners dug for the gem at night, believing that peridot’s vibrant hues glowed brighter in the dark. Peridot’s primary attributed virtue is protection form both illness and physical danger. The Victorians even wore peridot to prevent sorrow.

SEPTEMBER

For centuries, bleu sapphire has been the birthstone for September. Its name is derived form sapphires, Greek for bleu. Among several ancient cultures, the world was thought to be supported by large sapphire that was reflected in the colour of the sky. Blue sapphire became associated with intellect, bringing wisdom to the wearer. As the second-hardest gemstone, after diamond, sapphire also represents the indestructibility of love and fidelity, making blue sapphire a very popular option for Victorian engagement rings.

OCTOBER

White opal is associated with October- its name means « precious stone » in Sanskrit. Given opal’s fiery flashes of colour, it was believed that lightning brought the gem to earth. Protection form disease was its main virtue, while also allowing the wearer to see in the future. However, the Victorians believed opal could bring bad luck when not worn as a birthstone.

 

For the very superstitious, pink tourmaline is an alternative October birthstone. Is inspires creativity and represents hope. While opal and tourmaline are October’s most common birthstones, aquamarine also has a tradition of representing the tenth month.

NOVEMBER

In most cultures topaz is the most popular gemstones for November. Its name is derived form the ancient Sanskrit word for fire; the intense yellow of topaz reminded Egyptians of their sun god Ra. Like the warm glow of the sun, topaz is believed to have calming powers. It is also said to ensure loyalty in both friends and lovers. During the Middle Ages, topaz was used to cure mental illness and was thought to delay death.

DECEMBRE

Bleu zircon is the traditional birthstone for the final month of the year. Popular among Hindu poets, zircon was worn throughout the ages to attract prosperity and increase the intellect of its wearer.

 

Turquoise, the month’s Eastern European birthstone, is thought to protect the wearer form danger and illness as well as to symbolize resurrection and rebirth.

 

December also boats the most recent addition to the modern birthstone chart: tanzanite. Discovered in the 1960s in Tanzania, this gem was identified, named and promoted by Tiffany & co. Premium tanzanite has trichroic combination of rich blue and violet tones with subtle yet fiery flashes of crimson.

Coloured gemstones have long been assigned symbolic and talismanic meanings. From the days of the ancient Romans to Biblical times, gems have played very important roles in traditions and lore. Coloured gems were integral in building Paradise, as described in the Book of Revelations; gemstones were chosen to build New Jerusalem based on their symbolic meanings. While the symbolism of gems may have been altered since these times, each gemstone still holds a mystical tale. By offering clients birthstones from the ancient, traditional and modern charts, jewellers can provide a varied range of coloured gemstones for their clients, allowing them to express themselves through birthstones jewellery. Whether it is a piece from the estate counter or a brand-new jewel, customers will surely appreciate the thrill of an age-old story.